History of Skunk Domestication

While the date and method of first domestication is unknown, it is thought that the first pet striped skunks were living with people as long as 100 years ago. Some Native Americans kept pet skunks raised from infancy, so skunk domestication may have begun even earlier. What we know is that skunks, when raised and socialized by humans at a young age, are friendly and playful towards people. For generations, breeders have been developing interesting patterns and colors other than the typical black and white striped pattern. Pet skunks today can be solid white with no striping at all, or various stripe and spot markings of black, silver, gray, cream, tan, and brown. This variety in color is a true sign of selective breeding and domestication. Animals born in the wild with abnormal coloring often fall victim to predators early in life. Skunks sold in the pet trade today are 100% domesticated and raised in captivity.

Considerations

Skunks are illegal to keep as pets in some states. In Pennsylvania, a person must obtain a permit from the state and obtain the skunk from a breeder, who should require the permit be obtained before purchase. Since skunks are relatively new to the pet trade and highly regulated, it can be difficult to find a breeder and you may need to be put on a waiting list for babies. Pet stores are not allowed to carry skunks in Pennsylvania because there is no rabies vaccination approved for them. This is very important to remember. It is not a good idea to take your skunk out in public on a regular basis; if your skunk bites a person or another animal, it may be seized by authorities.

Find a good skunk vet before taking your pet home, not after. Most reputable breeders can recommend vet in your area who will take a skunk as a patient, and some may even require that you take your skunk in for a check up after taking him home. You should also spay or neuter your skunk and have the scent glands removed relatively young. Most of the time, this is done by the breeder before the skunk even comes home. If not, A responsible breeder will make you sign paperwork stating that you will spay or neuter your skunk and/or have the scent glands removed at an appropriate time.

Lifestyle

Like their close relatives, ferrets, skunks are intelligent and can be trained to use a litter box. And, like ferrets, they cannot be locked in a cage all day like a hamster or a guinea pig. A skunk that is caged for more than 4-8 hours a day will probably become restless and aggressive. If not supervised, they can be extremely mischievous, digging holes in carpet, chewing on furniture, stealing things, and generally behaving like curious toddlers, if not kept mentally and physically stimulated. For this reason it is recommend that skunks be provided with lots of toys like dog chewies, cat trees, beds, tunnels, and other toys keep them occupied. A skunk is naturally keen on seeking out his food, so hiding treats in toys like kong balls, or hiding them around the house is a good way to keep a skunk occupied. Normally nocturnal, skunks can adjust to the sleeping schedule of their owners, but they have been known to wander the house at night making trouble if not crated or confined to a room.

Skunks prefer to roam the house or at least a room that is outfitted for them. Keeping a skunk proof room is a good idea so they can’t wreck your house when you are not home! Skunks are also social, so having another is beneficial, or at least a buddy for them like a ferret or a very gentle cat or dog, unless someone is home all day to keep them entertained. Skunks must be socialized and handled a lot the first several weeks of ownership. You should be willing to spend a great deal of time with your new pet to assure he grows up friendly and unafraid of people.

Diet

There is a lot of debate amongst keepers over what constitutes a healthy diet for skunks. Skunks can live for well over 10 years, if given a varied healthy diet. In the wild, skunks are opportunistic omnivores. They will eat insects, worms, snails, rodents, frogs, crayfish, bird eggs, berries, grain, nuts, and even human garbage, depending on what is available in their area. A pet skunk’s diet should consist of about 50% vegetable matter, 10% commercial or homemade skunk food, and 40% other foods such as meat, eggs, and yogurt. Because of their voracious appetites and their willingness to take almost any new food, skunks often have a problem with obesity, so it is important to monitor what and how much you feed your pet skunk. Breeders of pet skunks usually have their own regimen of feeding, so ask your pet’s breeder what he/she recommends. Skunks appreciate treats like cat food, but it should not be the main part of their diet. It is a mistake a lot of first time skunk owners make and can lead to health issues if it is the only food offered.

Thanks for reading,

Jess

Friendly Skunk image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Gary J. Wood
Skunks as Pets image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Paul M. Walsh
Skunk eating image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by outdoorcat75455

Post from: That Pet Blog


Skunks as Pets

The First Opossum “Star”

Heidi’s journey to the zoo is interesting in and of itself – orphaned in North Carolina, she was reared at a nature center and eventually found her way to a zoo in Denmark, and from there to Germany.  But the key to her popularity is the appealing look of a face dominated by “unique eyes”. 

Here in the US, people usually deride Opossums as “giant rats” and are horrified to have them as neighbors; even biologists tend to write them off as “primitive”.  But Europe, and now the world, has embraced Heidi – her Facebook page has over 100,000 followers, and she has inspired recorded songs and a line of toys!  Surprising, but I say anything that encourages people to care about animals is positive!

Virginia Opossums as Pets

Truth be told, Virginia Opossums do not make the most responsive of pets.  Much time and effort is needed to habituate them to people, and captives soon realize that biting is more effective than “playing dead” when it comes to discouraging annoying owners!  Bottle-raised kits, available from a few breeders, are the best option (check state laws).

You can also gain Opossum experience by becoming a wildlife rehabilitator (please see article below).  Virginia Opossums are thriving – originating in Central America, they now range to Canada – but they are very “accident-prone”.  Dogs, cars and curious children assure that rehabilitators are kept busy with needy youngsters each spring.

Opossum Feeding Stations

The easiest way to enjoy Opossums is to feed free-ranging individuals.  They are not hard to find – while working as a nuisance wildlife trapper, I caught many in Manhattan (the East Village was especially good “habitat”)! 

Opossums take readily to free handouts, with almost nothing being rejected.  A huge female appears in my Long Island, NY yard nearly every night, where she enjoys leftover yams, fruit and the occasional peanut butter sandwich.

Sugar Gliders and other Australians

Distantly related to the Virginia Opossum and its 60+ Latin American cousins, several of Australia and New Guinea’s 20+ Possums are established in the pet trade. 

Most folks are surprised to learn that the most popular of these, the Sugar Glider, Petaurus breviceps, is a pouch-bearing Possum and not a Flying Squirrel relative (please see article below).  

South American Opossums

South America’s chief contribution to the pet trade is the Short-Tailed Opossum, Monodelphis domestica.  This little fellow is dubbed the “House Opossum” in some regions, as it readily takes up residence in homes, where it’s fondness for insects and small snakes is sometimes appreciated.  Those I’ve kept tamed down easily; they are important lab animals as well.

The 4-inch-long Mouse Opossums, Marmosa elegans, under my care in various zoos were a delight to observe, but efforts to establish them in the pet trade have not been very successful. 

Further Reading

News Release with photos and videos of Heidi

Keeping Sugar Gliders and other Exotic Mammals

Becoming a Wildlife Rehabilitator

Mouse Opossums

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio
Opossum image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Drcyrus
Mouse Opossum image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Icelight

Post from: That Pet Blog


Virginia and Short-Tailed Opossums as Pets, with Notes on Heidi, a Cross-Eyed Star

Pine

Pine is the most widely available and inexpensive bedding you’ll see. A lot of pet owners have used it, and their animals have done well for many years. The consistency and texture of the bedding depends on the brand of pine you use; you could be getting fine-cut soft shreds, or big, thick shavings. Generally, I don’t like to use wood-based bedding at all because it tends to be dusty, and this can cause respiratory illness in some animals. Beware of this bedding if you have allergies, the dust may also cause them to act up. My pets (particularly my guinea pig) also tend to fling this light-weight bedding out of the cage, creating quite a mess. If you decide to opt for pine, I suggest choosing a brand with finely shredded pieces for the comfort of your animal. If you’re not fond of strong, woody smells in your living space, this is not the beddign type for you.

Cedar

Cedar is a material I will never recommend for use in small animal cages. That Fish Place does not carry cedar bedding types because the strong oils in the wood can cause respiratory infections, urinary tract infections, foot problems, and intestinal issues in small pets. Cedar shavings smell nice and are naturally insect repellent. Though we think it the scent is pleasant, these oils are like pesticides to your small pets. Cedar chips are also usually cut into large chunks that are harsh to walk on and can be harmful if swallowed.

I, unfortunately, learned the dangers of cedar the hard way. My pet guinea pig, Pepper, suddenly stopped eating and drinking. We took him to the vet and found out he was suffering from intestinal problems due to being around and eating cedar. He eventually died despite treatment. Do not use cedar in small animal habitats!

Aspen

As I’ve said, I generally don’t like wood-based bedding, but if you like the prospect of a cheap and easy to find bedding, aspen is probably the best. It seems to have a lower amount of dust than pine, is usually cut into very fine soft pieces, and smells nice without being harmful. Personally, I don’t like the residue aspen leaves on my hands after handling it, but it does not seem to bother the animals. As with any wood bedding it could activate respiratory problems in sensitive animals, so keep an eye on your pets and change the bedding if they develop allergies. Watch for hair loss on the belly and legs of your pet as this may also indicate allergy issues with bedding.

Carefresh, Boxo, and Other Paper-based Bedding

Boxo and Carefresh are the two brands I use in my own pet cages. Carefresh is made out of recycled paper material and Boxo is made from shredded cardboard boxes. Both of these are a little bit dusty, but there is no avoiding dust in small animal bedding, despite what the packaging may say. Speaking from experience, these bedding types seem to be almost hypo-allergenic when it comes to the animals, and they do not seem have any adverse effects when chewed on. There are also no harmful oils in the processed paper shreds.

These paper bedding materials can have funky smells when they get wet, but only if they become saturated in your animal’s cage. The smell is almost like an indicator the cage needs cleaned! If you do find that there is a saturated area, it should be changed immediately avoid mold growth. 

Lately, I’ve been leaning more towards Boxo because it comes in larger bags for only a little bit more money. I have a lot of cages to clean, so quantity and price are also things I consider.

Regardless of which bedding you decide to use, always keep an eye on your pets and make sure they are not sneezing, scratching, developing welts or scabs, or losing fur. Any of these symptoms could be a sign of allergies, and a switch in the bedding type you use may make a difference. If not, your pet may need a visit to the vet!

Until next time,

Jess

Hamster in shavings image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Primek

Post from: That Pet Blog


The Bedding Dilemma – Choosing the Right Bedding for Your Small Pet

A Unique Breeding Strategy

Ferrets and other members of the family Mustelidae (weasels, mink, otters and related species) have evolved a unique reproductive strategy known as induced ovulation.  Unlike most mammals, female Ferrets do not ovulate (release eggs so that they may be fertilized) until the act of mating has occurred. 

Another unusual twist to the breeding biology of Domestic Ferrets is the fact that unmated females will remain in their estrus cycle until they mate, or are spayed or chemically induced to ovulate.  This phenomenon is not well studied in wild Ferret relatives, but has serious consequences for pet Ferrets (and, of course, for those who care for them).

Aplastic Anemia: Causes and Treatments

Remaining in estrus for unnaturally long periods, as would be the case for unmated pets, causes the female to be exposed to continually high levels of circulating estrogen.  This in turn suppresses bone marrow production, and leads to a typically fatal bout of Aplastic Anemia.  A swollen vulva and pale gums are the most easily discernible signs of the disease.

Aplastic Anemia is, as mentioned, best prevented by spaying at the appropriate time, but injections of Human Chorionic Gonadotrophin have also proven successful.  While mating your female may seem to be an ideal option, Ferret breeding is far from a simple prospect.  Inbreeding depression and Staph/E. coli infections, along with other complications, are common (please write in for further information).

Adrenal Gland Disorders

Domestic Ferrets are also prone to Adrenal Gland disorders, which may or may not be related to the female’s reproductive cycle.  Hair loss and a swollen belly are common indications that something is amiss with the Adrenal Glands. 

Surgical removal of one or both Adrenals is possible, and several medications hold promise.  Recent studies have indicated that regular treatment with Lupron (Leuprolide acetate) may both treat and even prevent some of the most common Adrenal Gland problems (please see article below).

Ferrets make interesting and amusing pets, but please be sure that you are aware of all possible concerns before bringing one into your home.  I’ll cover other potential stumbling blocks in the future.   Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Lupron Therapy for Ferrets:  written by Doctor Kevin Wright, a recognized leader in the field of exotic animal medicine.  Please see the numerous related articles on the website as well.

The History of Ferret Domestication

Feral Ferrets: Domestics Gone Wild

Pathology of the Domestic Ferret: reproductive and other disorders.

Post from: That Pet Blog


Ferret Owners Beware – a Fatal Disease Common in Unmated Females

Dog Fighting

The Humane Society of the U.S. is addressing multiple issues involving animal cruelty. You can sign petitions to aid in stopping animal cruelty and to help with legislation. Dog fighting is a nationwide epidemic. The Humane Society is currently offering a $5,000 reward for reports of dog fighting and asks that we help spread the word. Please visit the site, to find out how to take a stand aginst this horror.

Factory Farm Cruelty

Many of us don’t think about where our meat comes from when it’s served to us in a restaurant or bought on sale at the grocery store. The reality is most of the animals that provide to us with meat, eggs, and dairy products are often kept in deplorable conditions with limited freedom to move or act naturally. Animals kept on factory farms are treated more like objects than living things, and little if any consideration is given to the quality of their existence. Cruel and painful practices are common in these commercial facilities. ASPCA’s site, you can read about 10 different ways to make a difference. Find out how to contact your state and federal legislators to help end cruelty to factory farm animals.

Chinese Fur Trade

PETA may be the most well known animal rights group today. They address many issues on their website including the appalling methods of the Chinese fur trade. Chinese law does not forbid cruel and unusual trapping and killing techniques. The animals are kept in small cages outdoors with no protection from rain, sun, or cold. Animals are bludgeoned with sticks and literally skinned alive and left to die slowly and in great pain. Animals used for fur in China include foxes, mink, raccoon dogs, rabbits, and even cats and dogs. Videos on the PETA are extremely graphic and hard to watch. Sign a petition against the Chinese fur trade.

Sponsor an Endangered Animal

The World Wildlife Fund is one of the leading active causes for saving endangered species today. On their website, you can choose from dozens of endangered animals from tigers, pandas, and polar bears to bats, salamanders, and stingrays. Sponsor a species and donate to a worthy cause. Remember, when they are gone, they are gone forever.

Thanks for reading,

Jess

Post from: That Pet Blog


Join A Cause and Help Animals

The Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council

PIJAC does a fine job of promoting responsible pet care by providing information to animal owners and industry leaders.  I especially favor their policy of offering expert testimony to lawmakers. 

The PIJAC website actively solicits the opinions of the general public, and provides a simple means for users to contact lawmakers and voice concerns.  PIJAC’s efforts were instrumental in revising a recent law that might have had drastic consequences for reptile breeders and owners (please see article below).

The Humane Society of the United States

A long-established animal welfare advocate, HSUS posts a status report on pending state laws affecting captive wild and domestic animals and provides a simple tool that allows people to submit petitions and contact politicians. 

The laws tracked by HSUS cover every conceivable animal welfare issue, from circus elephant care and cock fighting to dog shelter operation.

The Sierra Club

This conservation organization’s Legislative Tracker is a valuable tool that monitors all pending federal bills related to the environment.  While not specifically pet-related, the topics covered will be of interest to those who keep “non-typical” pets, and for all who are concerned about the health of natural habitats.

Users are provided with background information and status reports, and are able to register their opinions with the lawmakers.  Recently tracked bills involved sustainable electricity sources and the fate of the Saguaro National Park.

The Center for Biological Diversity

The actions of the US Fish and Wildlife Service and related federal agencies are the main focus of this organization’s activities.  Native and exotic animals that appear in the pet trade are frequent subjects of the laws tracked by CBD.

Website visitors are provided with detailed information concerning pending regulations and “Action Toolboxes” that enable one to register opinions with the government and take other steps to help ensure responsible action on behalf of native wildlife and habitats. 

ThatPetBlog

I’ve provided testimony on pending legislation several times over the years, and try to remain current through contacts I’ve established.  I also post blog articles on law-related subjects that may be of interest to pet owners, such as this recent one on Animal Abuse.  Please feel free to post questions or to email me directly.

Laws and related topics affecting captive and wild reptiles, birds and fishes are also posted on ThatReptileBlog, ThatBirdBlog and ThatFishBlog (please see article below for an example).

Further Reading

May Hatchling Red-Eared Sliders be Legally Bought and Sold?

PIJAC Position on an Act Limiting Snake Ownership.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

 
Dog in Shelter image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Nhandler
Baby Guinea Pig image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Sandos

Post from: That Pet Blog


Staying Updated on Laws Affecting Pet Ownership and Animal Welfare

Substrate

Pygmy Mice burrow in the wild – provide yours with 3-4 inches of pine shavings into which they can dig.  They will construct enclosed nests, often shared by several individuals, of dry grass or pet nesting material. 

Self-constructed burrows are preferable to plastic caves or nest boxes.  Pygmy Mice have high metabolisms – condensation from respiration can build up on shelter walls, causing a damp, unhealthy situation (this helps them gather water in the wild – please see Part 1).

Accessories

Fruit tree branches and small logs should be added to provide climbing and gnawing opportunities.  If stout beach grass is available, try adding a clump – I’ve had great fun watching Pygmy and Harvest Mice clamber about on the stalks.  Small animal toys and chew sticks may also be used.

Temperature

Pygmy Mice withstand quite cold temperatures in some parts of their range, but captives fare best at 70-80 F (temperature tolerance likely varies among different populations).  I’ve experienced high losses among chilled African Grass Mice and other rodents that deal with cold weather in the wild – perhaps stress weakens the immune system of captives.  In any event, it’s best to play it safe and keep Pygmy Mice warm. 

A night-viewing bulb will help you to provide warmth after dark and observe their nocturnal activities.

Diet

House Mice manage to survive on very poor diets (one population in a commercial meat-packing plant eats only beef!) but their tiny African relatives are more delicate.  Wild Pygmy Mice consume many insects, and a good supply of protein is important for captives. 

A parakeet seed mix and high protein rodent chow can serve as the basis of their diet.  Millet sprays hung from the tank’s lid will keep mice and mice-keepers entertained for hours.

Small crickets, waxworms and mealworms should be offered regularly; a mealworm colony will provide grubs, pupae and beetles for the little hunters.  If pesticides are not used in the area, try collecting beetles and moths from around outdoor lights – your mice will go wild with excitement! 

Other useful protein sources include cage bird egg food and canned insects;  some folks favor meat-based tropical fish foods.

Small amounts of fruit, yam, carrot, kale and other greens should be provided 1-2 times weekly.

Pygmy Mice are incessant food hoarders, and cram seeds into check pouches like sawed-off little Chipmunks.  They have high metabolisms and should always have food and water (via water bottle) available.

Breeding

An ideal breeding group consists of 1 male and 3 females.  Several groups can be housed in larger (30-55 gallon) aquariums, but males may fight if crowded – please see Part 1. 

The gestation period is 19-21 days.  Litters are small by rodent standards, with an average of 2-4 young (rarely more than 7) being produced.  Newborn Pygmy Mice are about the size of pencil erasers and must be seen to be believed!  They are weaned at 3-4 weeks of age, and may reach sexual maturity by week 6 (I forestall breeding until they are 3-4 months old).  The average captive lifespan is 2-3 years; non-breeders are said to live a bit longer, but I have not confirmed this.

Further Reading

Pygmy Mouse Natural History

Great video, Pygmy Mouse behavior.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

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Keeping and Breeding the African Pygmy Mouse – Part 2

Note: Be sure to check local laws before purchasing an exotic rodent, and ask your doctor if there are any health issues to consider.  All animal bites and scratches, however minor, should be attended to by a physician.

Captive History

I first made the Pygmy Mouse’s acquaintance while working for an animal importer in NYC many years ago.  The tiny beasts measured between 1 and 3 inches in length, and could perch comfortably on a quarter!  I was fascinated by their behavior, and for a time they were quite popular zoo exhibits and pets.  These days African Pygmy Mice are harder to find, but a few private breeders still offer them on occasion.

Mouse Engineers

Pygmy Mice range throughout much of Africa south of the Sahara.

While not the smallest of mammals – Kittie’s Hog-Nosed Bat of Thailand is bumblebee sized, and the North American and Eurasian Pygmy Shrews (please see photo) are not much larger – they are the tiniest furred creatures that most people will ever see.

In dry habitats Pygmy Mice gather water by piling pebbles at their burrow’s entrance at night.  The warm air from the burrow collides with the cooler evening air aboveground, creating condensation that is licked off the pebble piles each morning – most ingenious!

Handling

Pygmy Mice are not great choices for those looking for a pet to handle or play with.  They are very quick and tend to be high strung (you would be too at that size – in Africa, they are on the menus of spiders, frogs, snakes, lizards and countless birds and mammals!) and are easily injured when handled.  They may resist by biting, and despite their size can easily break one’s skin; please see caution concerning bites above.  However, Pygmy Mice are fascinating to observe, especially when set up in a spacious aquarium. 

Social Groups

One male and 3 female Pygmy Mice will live comfortably in a 10 gallon aquarium, but more space will be beneficial to them and provide more for you to observe.

Colony housing is possible in large tanks, but if too many males are present fighting will ensue.  I’ve never been able to pinpoint when this will occur…some groups do well with many males, while at other times I’ve had to separate males even when only 4 were present in a 55 gallon aquarium.  A host of factors, including external stressors, female ratio and individual personalities (yes, they vary in personality!) are likely at work, so in group situations I just watch carefully and remove most of the males.

On to basic care and breeding next time…until then, please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Interesting new research on sex determination in the Pygmy Mouse

Video of a female caring for her tiny youngsters.

Eurasian Pigmy Shrew image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted to Flickr by Polandeze

Post from: That Pet Blog


Keeping and Breeding the African Pygmy Mouse – Part 1

Supreme Survivors

Domestic Cats slide seamlessly from indoor to outdoor life, and their adaptability amazes biologists who study feral populations.  Those living in one Australian desert never encounter standing water, yet get along quite well; a group shipwrecked on Marion Island, off the tip of South America, thrives in the shadow of Antarctica – further south than any other non-marine mammal! 

Adaptability has helped the 5 subspecies of the Wildcat (Felis sylvestris) to survive in habitats ranging from Chinese deserts to African village outskirts (please see map). 

Domestication Theory Overturned

The Near Eastern or African Wildcat (please see photo) has commonly been credited as the ancestor of the Domestic Cat.  Because of its prominence in ancient Egyptian culture, it was believed that Wildcats were the first domesticated there.  Based on archaeological studies, the time of domestication was given as approximately 4,000 years ago. 

The discovery of a 9,500 year-old apparently Domestic Cat in a tomb in Cyprus set the domestication date much further back in time.  Wildcats are not native to Cyprus – the animal is believed to be a Near Eastern Wildcat, taken there by people from Turkey (please see article below). 

Wild Ancestor(s)

Each of the 5 Wildcat subspecies – the European, Near Eastern, South African, Central Asian and Chinese Desert – interbreed among themselves and with feral Domestic Cats, so the ancestor of our pets could have been any of these.  Advances in genetic studies, however, has now given us a definitive answer. 

Researchers at the US National Cancer Institute and the University of Oxford analyzed DNA from all 5 Wildcat subspecies, and determined that the Near Eastern Wildcat (Felis sylvestris lybica) gave rise to the modern day Domestic Cat, and that the site of original domestication, some 10,000 years ago, was in the area known as the “Fertile Crescent”, in what is now Iraq. 

This finding coincides nicely with other evidence.  The cat’s association with people came when grains were first being cultivated and stored…the cat’s prowess as a rodent killer would have made it a welcome guest.  Interestingly, Near Eastern Wildcat kittens are relatively easy to tame and even today they often reside near people and interbreed with Domestic Cats.  Not so with all Wildcats – colleagues of mine contend that the European Wildcat (please see photo) is impossible to tame, even when bottle-raised!

What is a Domestic Cat?

The traditional definition of a species is the ability to mate and produce fertile young – Domestic Cats do so with all Wildcat subspecies.  Many taxonomists, therefore, classify the Domestic Cat as a Wildcat subspecies, Felis sylvestris catus, rather than as a distinct species (F. catus). 

The odd appearance of a young Bobcat I once trapped led me to believe that one of its parents was a Domestic Cat, but experts are split on this possibility – more on that in the future.

The Domestic Dog is also a subspecies of its wild ancestor and not a true species…more on that in the future.  Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Leopard Cat/Domestic Cat hybrids are popular pets; read more here.

Discovery of the Oldest Known Pet Cat.

Small Wild Cat Conservation

European Wildcat image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Aconcagua

African Wildcat image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Sonelle

Post from: That Pet Blog


Domestic Cat Origins – Is Your Pet Merely a Tame Wildcat?

The pot-bellied pig is a breed originating from Vietnam, developed as companion animals to keep in gardens. They can be all black, black and white, silver, or almost all white. They have straight tails (not curly!), short, erect ears, and stiff, bristly hair when mature. While they are smaller than the standard domesticated farm pig, they are dense and heavy, weighing between 80-200 lbs at maturity. Larger individuals are often victims of obesity due to misunderstanding of dietary needs by their owners. A bowed back and large belly is normal for the breed, but a pot-belly stomach that is so large it drags on the ground (though it will often be close as the pigs are only 12-20 inches high) or a pet with excessive fat rolls, is showing signs of obesity.

The pot-bellied pig has a vast appetite and will eat almost anything offered, but a healthy diet should consist of pre-measured servings of formulated high fiber feed specifically designed for pot-bellies. Do not give your pot-belly feeds designed for farm pigs as these are higher in calories. Pot-bellies should be also be offered fresh veggies for up to 25% of their diet and be allowed to “root” or dig through a clean, pesticide-free outside area, which is a natural behavior for them.

These pigs are quite intelligent, and they will need enrichment activities to keep them from becoming destructive or bored, just like high-energy dog breeds. They need mental and physical stimulation to keep from getting lazy, overweight, or aggressive, and its importat for you to interact with your pig every day! They love to perform tricks for treats, are easily litter trained, and love plenty of free time exploring a fenced in yard or pig pen, and regular walks with their owners. A pot-belly should not be left alone with nothing to do all day or chances are destruction will result. Enrichment toys like treat-stuffed Kong toys are useful tools. Especially if you plan on keeping your pig inside the house, be sure to secure or hide things that may be harmful to your pet such as chemical, cords and other items. Just because they are in a cabinet doesn’t mean that your pig can’t get to them! Area rugs on slippery floors are also appreciated since hooves don’t give these guys much traction.

Pot-bellies respond well to training and positive reinforcement, but do not understand or appreciate punishment. You may need to be extra patient with this pet. A well treated pig is a gentle, quiet, friendly pet that will greatly enjoy the company of its humans. Pigs should be neutered or spayed upon hitting sexual maturity to avoid aggression and dominance issues.

Before purchasing or adopting a pot-bellied pig, please consider carefully the needs of these pets and your situation. Adorable piglets will inevitibly grow and mature, and like children and puppies, raising a pig right will have it’s challenges. Make sure the area where you live allows them and that there is a vet able to treat your pet nearby. The breeder or rescue you obtain your pig or piglet from should have a good reputation and be willing remain in contact with you in case you have any issues or questions.  Do your research, and you could end up with a wonderfully unique companion for 15-30 years.

Post from: That Pet Blog


Pot-Bellied Pigs – The Other House Pet